Posted by: jmbwineblog | April 20, 2010

First Day of the Season at Lords and some 09 Bordeaux in the evening!

So after the early birthday bash, and whilst the ash some a-coming forth, I decided I should pop over to Lords because with my (pre-ash) travelling schedule, there was no guarantee that I’d be able to go and see my beloved Middlesex from the Lords pavilion without having to pay for a little while. The beauty of being a member of Middlesex CCC is that entry to the ground and members areas are free on Middlesex matchdays! It was the 16th April.

Yippee…

The Pavilion View of Middlesex v Glamorgan Day 1

The Flag

Well, Middlesex played OK (but were pretty useless as always over the next fews days, but the evening saw a short trek to the Shepherd’s Bush end of Kensington High Street for a small tasting of some of the much hyped 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur Wines at Roberson Wine Merchants shop (www.robersonwinemerchants.co.uk). The wines were a mixed bunch, but then there were werne’t a huge number of the big boys on offer.

The Crowd

First up was a meaty, woody, big, ripe white from Graves, Chateau Bouscaut Blanc, which unfortunately was a touch passable (***[*]). This was closely followed by the Big Brother of the Blanc, the Rouge, which was nice and fruit forward on the nose, herby, but hollow on the palate, despite some nice freshness. (****[*+]) The Chateau Seguin from Pessac-Leognan had some nice balance and a chocolatey note, and bright acid but it lacked a finish. For me the most pleasant of the wines from this part of the Bordeaux. (*****+)

Next up was the Chateau Haut Bergey (a Parker favourite) and it felt like one, opulent and lifted with soft tannins, it lacked the finesse that comes with freshness, as did its stable mate the Chateau Branon (both ****).

Onto the right banks, which were far more of a mixed bunch, with noticeably high alcohol levels the lesser wines from satellites fared better in this group. The Deep Earthy but Fresh Chateau Reynon (****[*+])and the Chateau Mont Perat (******) with its elegant, delicate, herby, sweet nature (both 1ere Cotes de Bordeaux) showed well. As did the Chateau LA Croix Lartigue of Cotes de Castillon (*****[*]), with its pepper, spice, wood and minerals.

St. Emilion (based on these two wines) seems to be a bit all over the place. The Chateau Boutisse was soupy, dishwatery, had volatile acidity and lacked stuffing (***) whilst the Les Trois Origines was woody and the fruit that was there seemed fairly weedy (***). The Clos L’Eglise from Pomerol however, was a tour de force. Big, brash, balanced, complex, with lovely acidity and enough fruit to hide the very high alcohol (******[*+]).

Clos L'Eglise Barrel Sample

The Medocs are seemingly however, where the true consistency will lie, and hopefully further tastings will show this well. Chateau de Villegeorge, Haut Medoc was violet, and damson scented, easy, delicate and fresh, with lots of small grainy tannins (*****+) whilst the Chateau Duplessis, Moulis-en-Medoc, whilst lacking a finish had a light, delicate, fresh feel to it (*****). Into Pauillac, and the Chateau Fonbadet was pure classic Cabernet, minty, spearmint, elegant and slightly woody, whilst its hollowness lets it down (****); if other Pauillacs are like this but a step up, then they will be pretty special.

Whilst much has been said of Margaux’s general inconsistency, however, from this tasting, these were by far the most pleasing wines with a lot going for them in terms of their quality and their future. All of those on display here were also great value for money so long as the Chateau don’t get greedy. Chateau Tour de Mons, Cru Borgeois, was elegant and herby, with fresh cassis fruit and although there was a touch of heat, the wine was balanced (*****[*+]). Another Cru Borgeois, Chateau La Tour de Bessan had notes of plum, cassis, wood, bramble and earth but was fresh and lively with big soft tannins; bold and lively (*****+). The deep, minty, balanced eucalyptus in the Chateau Desmiral, 3eme Cru Classe was a plus but with a hollow finish I wander whether or not it will fill out (****[*??]), but the Chateau Dufort-Vivens was another super wine. The 2eme Cru Classe stood up and was certainly counted with its perfumed nose, elegant mint ands eucalyptus, soft, elegant tannins, and plummy fruit, this is certainly a wine to keep a beady eye on! (******[*+])

Durfort-Vivens Barrel Sample

Please note, that the scores published here are purely my own and in the context of the tasting at which these wines were present. They represent my own opinions and no-one else’s. A separate tasting may result in a different score, and are no guarantee that the wines will perform in the same manner upon full maturity.

They are simply my opinion of these wines at the time of tasting.

Best, Jono

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Responses

  1. That Dufort-Vivens was the real star of the star wasn’t it! Not sure about the Clos L’Eglise though, a bit too much alchol/spirit for me, a bit too much of a guru-focused wine…

    (Thanks again for that Jono…)

    I do love the photo of the Lords ground, in particular the non-smoking & smoking signs that are about a foot apart. Brilliant!…

    • Yeah, it was good… very good in fact, but the Clos L’Eglise was a serious wine that will age well, and it did mask most of the alcohol; but at the end of the day, we will have to wait and see…


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